Today I'm going to be interviewing one of my favorite, if not my favorite, She is the founder... designer of her brand Bodhi.
Maybe by definition Bodhi Bodhi is a menswear brand, but Bodhi is very much more than that.
Bodhi is a luxury brand with this sort of casual... vintage, eclectic edge.
Her brand is truly... the epitome of vintage-inspired clothing.
Like, she... fucking nails it. Bodhi makes it feel like you plucked it out of a store.
In the 50s, you know, the brand really is helping to preserve... the magical, beautiful craftsmanship of the past that's kind of slowly dwindling out of our day-to-day life.
And Bodhi is really one of one. I present to you Emily Adams Bodhi Ajla, the creator. of one of my favorite brands, Bodhi.
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Things people love. Okay, I first found Bodhi at, it was a Vogue event 2019 Paris Fashion Week.
That you were at? Yeah. And it was a cocktail like event.
But then there was like Sort of like a shop.
I don't know if it was like a shoppable area, but it was like kind of like a showcase. of everything.
And I found, you'll know this shirt. It was like all of the little foods and it was like a button up.
Oh, with the calorie count? With the calorie counts on it.
So, so good. I remember I saw it and I was like, I've never seen anything like this looks vintage.
And it was like this whole like mind expanding moment for me.
Yeah. Okay, so that print... Mm-hmm. is a reproduction, which you can find that print as like hand painted or like on kitchen kind of decor.
So like you see it on like tea towels or aprons or the one that I reproduced was on a handkerchief.
And to me, it was just, like, so hilarious.
It's so good. How many calories are in, like, coffee and carrots and...
Really bizarre foods. But it's colorful and it's in a cotton voil.
So it's like super thin and... People kind of went crazy for it because Harry wore it for something.
Yep, I remember this because I bought the shirt.
So, okay, listen. So I bought the shirt pre-Harry.
Okay, everybody, listen up. Pre-Harry, I bought the fucking shirt.
Because I saw it at that event and then like two weeks later I saw it at opening ceremony and I was like, Oh yeah, they're gone.
God, I'm so depressed about it. But that was a good shirt.
Amazing. Yeah. Was it like... I mean, obviously, when somebody like Harry Styles... wears a piece of your clothing, I think part of you is probably like, That's awesome.
But then also part of you is probably like, oh, shit.
Because, you know, a moment like that, where somebody who has so much influence, like Harry Styles, wearing something, it's going to skyrocket things. in a way, was that...
Well, we're quite... Yeah, I mean, we're quite intentional with, like, our runs.
So I don't know about back then, but it...
Today, it's like that's one of like 50 or one of 200 or one of two or one of one.
He's just such... an incredible Renaissance man that, you know, anything he wears, you know, I love when he wears our clothes.
And, you know, I truly value like our relationship.
And so that's really inspiring to me, especially him.
I'm really curious about you as... a young person.
Do you feel like the love for clothes came first or the love for crafts came came first.
I think I would have to say crafts because... as a kid, I mean, as much as I was definitely a fashion obsessed kid, you know, I used to like runway shows for my uncle and aunt, like, you know, I have, like, videos of that, like, visiting him in the south of France, like, you know.
Shredding down. A dream! That was definitely a part of my childhood, for sure.
But I think the first... understanding of aesthetics or just building like your world in general came through craft.
And I really think largely through dolls and probably through...
Like doll furniture and, you know, making little things for that world.
So I think that's where it came from. for me.
When do you think your point of view, your strong point of view really started to blossom, you know, when it comes to aesthetic things and creative things and, you know, even I've heard you discuss in videos and things about you know, how you love collecting things and you're such a collector.
And you do have such a distinct vision that is so consistent.
And I'm curious when that sort of became solid?
Like when was that really solidified? Was it... when you were super young, like 12?
Or is it, you know, even more recent? I mean, I do think I... had a very distinct vision of, you know, the worlds I wanted to live in, the kind of the imaginative environments from when I was a really little kid.
You know, the... I found a notebook that... I think I must have been like five or something, maybe a little older, but I was... trying to explain that, like, this dress came with this colored sash.
And this color dress came with this color.
And I would have like these little drawings and...
So I was always interested in that idea of making things, but also... of selling things and having objects in a vision available for other people.
Well, it's interesting because a lot of people I feel like just sort of discover that They're sort of calling later and they never saw it coming.
I mean... You saw it coming, I think. Like, you knew.
This was like... This was just destined from day one.
That's really special. What was like your go-to outfit as a kid?
I've always loved vintage clothes. My mom saved all of her vintage.
So it's not that... Not necessarily my mom's clothes, of course, from when she was a kid are vintage now.
Mm-hmm. But she also was buying vintage with her sisters.
So... So I have things that they had thrifted and bought at flea markets and things that they had saved.
Love it. I love that they had saved those things that I can now cherish and wear.
And I've worn... them, you know, throughout phases of like middle school and then in high school, I wore it.
And then, you know, now the T-shirt is no longer huge on me, but I
That's so cute. I love that. Moving on to a little later in your life.
College. So you went to Parsons, which is – it's a design school, correct?
Yeah. I personally, I didn't go to college.
So I'm always so curious about the impact that college has on especially creative people.
Because did going to college... help you become more creative by giving you sort of the technical tools? to really create whatever you want?
Or do you feel like in some ways it might've actually kind of put you in a box in a way and made you feel...
Because I think at school, you're obviously taught a curriculum, right?
That can sometimes kind of make you feel... confined in a way.
What was your personal experience with going to, you know, in art school?
Well, for me, because I come from a place where I personally love institutional learning.
I thrive in those environments, whereas it's definitely not for everybody.
I think that, you know, especially when I talk to young people who are deciding their trajectory or what they want to do.
I often believe in an older model that is not really around so much anymore, which is like the apprenticeship model.
Yeah. If you know for sure that you want to go into this thing and, You don't necessarily thrive in a more institutional educational environment than you should apprentice or intern in. you know, somewhere that you see fit.
But for me Parsons, I did the dual degree program.
So I did a bachelor's degree in philosophy and a bachelor of fine arts in fashion.
And when you enter into the program, at least for the fine arts degree, you have a set of, I guess it's foundational learning.
So like you mentioned, it's like providing you the skills to then make So it's like foundational skills of color theory and basic woodworking, things like that.
Do you do you find moments when like maybe you're you're working on a project and you end up going a direction that's the complete opposite? opposite of like what you learned in school?
Like, does that happen? Of course. In art school, One really valuable thing I feel like I learned which what you said reminds me of that is like you have to learn to be able to throw something away because As somebody who is making stuff from such a young age, everything was so precious that you'd make and then if it broke and...
Obviously, I come from a world in which I love preservation and... saving things.
So if something got destroyed, it would really affect me.
Yes, yes. Whereas that's one of the first things that you learn at art school is, like, they'll do this... kind of little exercise where you draw something for like three hours and then you have to erase it.
Oh, that is so evil. And you don't know that you're going to do that.
So... I remember the first time that happened in my, you know, one of my drawing classes.
I was like, no. I would have been so upset.
I understand what you're trying to teach me, but do I really have to do this?
Yeah. But you know, those kinds of exercises exercises then help you for even, I think of that one often, you know, at Bodie where, We do an embroidery layout and you're like, oh, my gosh, or, you know, it's finished and someone did it by hand or they laid out all the buttons for something.
And you're like, oh, you have to unpick all that.
And it's like, but you're going to make it better.
And, you know, it's the same idea of like painting over a painting.
Yep. It's like, it's heart wrenching, but you know, a hundred percent.
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Menswear. I love this. What made you want to start Bodhi with menswear.
Okay, so when I was a kid... I didn't necessarily know that I wanted to be a fashion designer.
I think I just knew that I wanted to work in fashion.
I have a video of me from high school saying I wanted to be a stylist.
You know, I think I just knew that this was like the industry I wanted to work in, but By the time I was in college, I really felt like... more challenge designing for someone outside of myself.
I had a professor that tasked us with doing a menswear project He truly was the first one to be like, you're actually really good at this, it's like come so naturally to you, like maybe this should be your track.
And it made sense. Once it had kind of come to fruition, it definitely...
Made sense. I loved... dressing my high school boyfriends and making clothes for everybody that wasn't necessarily me because for...
To make something for myself felt really simple and I wasn't as interested.
I was definitely more interested in making for the other.
You know, whether it was like a specific character or a guy.
Personally, I'm super... Like, I love... masculine clothing silhouettes like i prefer them most of the time i just i like the boxier fit like I like sort of like maybe even the oversized whatever personally are you more drawn to masculine or feminine silhouettes or kind of just both in whatever you like.
I was intrigued by doing workwear silhouettes, traditionally men's workwear silhouettes, because I wanted something that felt like extremely timeless.
I mean, the whole launch of Bodhi or, you know, why I started it was to create a line of clothing that you could technically like or essentially take a picture of somebody and not know what time period they were from.
Whereas it's definitely a lot harder to do that with women's silhouettes.
Yep. And... That was interesting to me that with menswear, you could really hone in on this idea of like a timeless thing. silhouette or a timeless narrative and then have clothes that would last forever or that people would want to wear forever.
I'm curious, though, what you think. What makes something timeless?
It's different for everybody. But for me, it starts from the material.
We use natural materials, whether it's cotton, linen, or wool, and a lot of times those are traceable.
There's definitely a sustainability component to it but also you know when something is made of a certain material or has a certain finish to it, like what era it's from or when it... could have begun to be from.
That doesn't mean that we don't use something like wit... like viscose or rayons we definitely have that in our collections but I'd say the foundation of our brand is natural materials.
And that's why doing certain projects with certain suppliers and supply chains have been so... important to us.
Because after all, we are aiming at the preservation of craft, but also prolonging the life cycle of our clothes.
And I think that's easier to do and to wrap your head around when when you're dealing with natural materials.
Are you ever sort of like, I want to do something futuristic?
Do you ever have like a moment where you're like, wait a minute.
No, I want to do something. Like, does that ever... cross your mind?
Or are you... Because I'm similar to you where...
I love vintage. I love all things sort of nostalgic and all things that have history.
That's personally what I'm attracted to, too.
But then every once in a while, I'll have like a weird fit where like I want to dress like I'm in Mad Max or something, and I don't know why, and I want to look like I'm an alien or something.
So I'm curious if you ever have that sort of like... this like creative outburst where you're like, hold on, I want to break this whole mold.
Or do you feel like, You're in this world and you're so happy in this world that you're never like...
I don't think I really venture outside of...
No, but that's like good. It's hard to tell because...
I feel like when I talk to my husband about this, sometimes he's like, I, you know, I love it.
Like, I never saw that coming in the collection.
Yeah. I love the way you make things. But I think the key is that, especially with having a brand, You know, you're put in a box not by yourself.
It's by the perception of the people that are the consumers.
Absolutely. It's really interesting that they might say, like, oh, that's so Bodhi, but then... you know, like the trousers you're wearing or a plain cashmere polo.
Is that Bodie still? But how do we get people to feel that all of these different worlds fall into the Bodhi world?
And you can do it as a brand. I don't think you're beholden to like a specific brand. kind of vision.
Do you ever feel pressure from... the fans of your brand to sort of create in a certain way.
Do you experience that or do you feel like you just...
No, of course. So you have to remember...
Anybody who makes things, and we tell ourselves this all the time, Because we get comments not just from customers, but, like, from stores and buyers and the press.
Oh, yeah. if they knew what was best for your brand, then it just doesn't logically make sense because when I launched Bodhi... these shirts made from these textiles and these silhouettes and this heavyweight textile or, you know, the lace shirts, for example, none of that I was told would succeed.
And yet it did. And you have to remember that...
Or I guess you have to trust your own instincts and trust your own gut on that.
Because it's it's really easy to be like, oh, gosh, this person has worked at this like incredible historic department store. for 15 years and they worked here like 20 years before that.
Right. And it's really tempting to listen to those people and to like your top client who, you know, wears the clothes so well or... you know, has 80 pieces of Bodhi.
But at the end of the day, they're buying it because you made those decisions and you.
Yes. started that vision so you have to take it with you know with a grain of salt Do you wear...
Only your own clothes. Because honestly, I would if I was you.
If I knew how to make clothes. I would not wear – I would just make what I want to wear.
Do you – Do you wear your own clothes? I do wear my own clothes, but I wear a lot of vintage clothes.
I'm not necessarily buying all of these to wear though.
I am also buying them for inspiration. But I'd say on any day, I mean, I try to wear a Bodhi every day, too, because I think it's really important.
Totally. And even, you know, I tell, like, our employees to, like... It's not just because I love seeing you in the clothes, but...
We learned so much about the clothes. Yes. oh gosh, like I love the red lining on the inside of our shoes.
It definitely comes off on your socks. I'm like, who's annoyed by it anymore?
Who is like, you know, because to me, I'm like, doesn't annoy me because I love the lining, you know, but you learn so much about wearing the clothes.
And I think it's the best way, especially when you're starting out, I think it was the most organic way for me to grow my business.
And it was how I got really organic business. press and totally from day one, you know, from wearing my own clothes.
How do you feel when you see people wearing the clothes?
I mean, customers, but also... celebrities too.
That would be kind of interesting to see like what celebrities...
But although celebrities aren't special, they're also just like the regular customer.
So fuck celebrities. I'm saying. Yeah. How does it feel to see people wearing the clothes?
Oh, God, it's the best. I mean, I... I truly think it justifies what you're doing.
Totally. More than even, like, winning a competition or an award. running into people wearing your clothes, especially not in your neighborhood, Oh, yeah, it was one thing to we opened a store on Hester Street in Like, so downtown New York, you know, you might go over to this coffee shop and you see a guy and then you might...
Or if like I recognize the client, that's super inspiring.
But it's when you're like driving on a random.
Oh, I can't even imagine. Yeah. There's a guy in a coffee shop wearing a shirt.
It's bizarre. You know, it's bizarre and it's amazing.
Yeah. Especially, I think, a turning point for the celebrity thing for me was...
When I first started, the only way for people to really get the clothes were like Bodhi, like through our office, right?
Mm-hmm. Or maybe through like a handful of stores.
Maybe there were like eight stores. And now that there's so many stores...
We're kind of like, wait, so they didn't even go through like the press office.
Like this person just like shot. Yeah. And that makes you feel really good because...
They're actually, like people are actually buying it.
Absolutely. You know, especially when, even when you're event dressing.
Mm-hmm. Or you could easily just ask for a press loan or, you know, like a press piece or a loan.
But. If, like, you're event dressing for red carpet and you actually bought it from, like, a random store and who knows where... that's pretty incredible because it means that they've truly fallen in love with the clothes.
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Use as directed. So you have a lot of vintage.
You're very much a vintage collector. Do you feel like you get your inspiration?
I mean, I'm assuming you get it from everywhere, but would you say like, sort of treasure hunting and finding these antiques is the main source of your inspiration?
Or would you say you also... are like watching the movies and reading the magazines.
Like, are you like... going back in time across the board or... are you just more into the antique side of things?
Like I know, I guess my question is, are you sort of in this world fully.
Like it's your entertainment. It's your, because I know some people sort of fully dedicate themselves to sort of their aesthetic or their theme.
Or they live without electricity. Yes, yes.
I'm like curious if that's like... If the Spider-Man movie comes out, is that a little bit too modern?
I can't see that. No. Can't see that not... You know what I mean?
Definitely not. No, I... You know, my design practice is object based, like for sure. you know, from tangible product.
But... I love older movies. That was one thing that really shocked me after doing some student... critiques at a couple colleges was I actually feel like that is not... as much in... I don't even want to say in trend, but when I was in school, it was... normal and encouraged to look back at history, but like primary resources.
So whether it was books or movies or newspapers or going to exhibitions or working with catalogs, And this was the first time that I had ever done like senior crits ever. where people weren't necessarily doing that, which I thought was kind of a shame because I learned so much about you know, my place in the world and who I am based on, you know, the histories, not just like my own family histories, my personal history, but by the histories of others and the cultures of others.
So going into designing a collection, I have... the objects themselves that are super important to the inspiration process.
But it's also the narrative. So it's I'm interviewing somebody.
Usually it's somebody who I can physically interview.
Sometimes it has been, you know, a family narrative that I'm referencing, but...
So that's like the intangible concept behind it or the overarching concept.
And then I... pull in all of these artifacts and antiques and objects from another place.
Wow. So obviously that sort of creative process that you have to do Twice a year, I'm assuming, or even more because there might be times when maybe you start it and then you're like, eh, and then you, you know.
Mm-hmm. A lot of work. Do you enjoy the fashion industry?
Like, obviously, I feel like there's You can love fashion and hate the industry.
I'm curious... How you feel about the industry.
And maybe you have mixed feelings. As we do about most things in life.
But. What's your sort of feeling about the industry itself?
I mean, we definitely sit within the fashion industry.
We show on the Paris calendar. But That being said, we are definitely not as much of a capital F fashion brand as a lot of brands that we might like sit with in Bergdorf Goodman.
You know, when I launched Modi, it was virtually unheard of that you could sell one of a kind product on like an essence or a matches or that didn't exist you know I you know there were definitely brands who had done it who had made product from antique materials, but it wasn't in the way in which we were doing it.
I made the choice to be a part of the industry.
Like, I made the choice. I wanted to show on Paris Fashion Calendar. from starting on the New York fashion calendar I wanted to sell in these stores because I...
I loved that I could have dreamt that I was going to be selling and like Saks and Bergdorf and, you know, as a kid and Barney's and then, that we actually made it happen.
So that's like a big part of who I am. you know, is is like hitting those goals.
Absolutely. I also think what's so even more sort of satisfying about it, I can imagine, is you didn't do what anyone else was doing.
Touching upon what we talked about earlier with like, taking advice from other people.
When I launched, I remember this... extremely important menswear guy coming to my studio.
And he was like, there's no way these shirts are going to sell.
They're too heavy. You know, because I was making clothes out of Well, I still do.
Domestic textiles. So it's like tablecloths. yep and they're boxy and they you know they drape in a certain way and They're short and they're cross.
And he was like, there's not a customer for that.
Right. And there totally is. And it's like, you know...
That's an instance in which like you can't always listen to people because they just didn't. they didn't know it yet like they it wasn't a part of what they had ever sold before so of course they Couldn't imagine selling it.
I don't know if you can... succeed and bring something new. to the table unless you kind of flip off literally everyone who's succeeded before who comes to you and says, you got to do it like this.
Like, I don't think you can listen to anyone because I think the second you start kind of listening to everyone, then you disappear into the abyss of what's already been done in a way. course and it's just but it's so hard like it's all it's almost like the the hardest test of you know like staying true to what you want to be creating.
It's why I think it's so hard. Right. And what void are you trying to fill?
I think it's a really important question to ask. but it was really hard for guys...
To buy clothing, especially to buy vintage clothing, and have it fit them or, you know... even last a certain amount of time.
And that was another impetus for launching the brand was filling this void of like I have guy friends you know that loved wearing vintage but it was like Definitely a lot harder to shop vintage as a male.
And so, you know... Filling a place in the market was a really good exercise to thinking like, how could I create a successful business?
Like, does this already exist? Yeah. You know?
Yeah. I'm curious to hear your thoughts about, you know, sort of the internet's impact on the industry as a whole.
I mean, there's this whole new phenomenon about Like no outfit repeating, like nobody outfit repeats. on social media.
And that's the complete opposite of your ethos.
You know what I mean? But do people exclaim that?
Like, I don't repeat outfits? Actually, you know what?
To be honest... No. It's like a silent... Okay, okay.
It's a silent role. It's not like people... Well, there's probably... Listen.
It's like a social role or something. Yeah, it's become, I mean, there's a lot of people now that are sort of like completely going backwards and like rejecting it.
But even growing up in the age of social media, as I did, it started –
When I was like 14 and... Oh, interesting.
All of a sudden, like, the girls were all like... we're posting on Instagram or we're like going to the dance and it's like, I can't wear that because I've already worn that.
And it was something that sort of, stemmed from social media somehow.
I don't know. Maybe it's like seeing celebrities constantly in a new outfit, never in the same outfit.
And then my generation was like, okay, so now...
You know, a lot of us are unlearning it.
Me too. I think like one way for me to...
Say how I've experienced that is with like event dressing.
Yes, I noticed that. It's the same thing.
Like, you can't wear... I mean, you can, you can, but you don't traditionally wear the same dress every Unless it's like years apart, you know, to events.
If you're going to do red carpet and if you're going to do...
If you're not doing red carpet, you can wear whatever, you know.
Totally. Wear the same dress you Well, but celebrities get weird sometimes because they're like, I'm not wearing that because she wore that.
Oh, that for sure. For sure. That's kind of what I thought of.
Which I do get because then it's like everybody's making a collage on Instagram.
Who wore it better? And then it's a nightmare.
Well, some people do it purposefully, too.
Yes, because they do the who wore it better and they know they'll do the who wore it better.
Which is kind of fun. And if they know that they're going to wear it better...
It's all... Yeah. But you have... Yeah, that's...
Yeah, catty. Yeah. That's the women's wear world that like I'm not so into.
Yeah, it is. I mean, it's crazy because like a men's are like men's clients.
You know, we have we dress a lot of people for their weddings.
Those guys are wearing their wedding suits like every event after their wedding forever.
Oh, yeah. You know? Yeah. And I mean, even with like Aaron, like...
He wears his wedding tux all the time, you know?
And, like... That's totally normal. But I think that's that's more of like a basic talk.
So I think it's like if you have like a perfect black dress, maybe.
You can get away with it. But but yeah, it's an interesting concept.
And you're right. I'm sure social media has only like fueled. that I guess I, yeah, I guess I don't post enough on like my personal Instagram feed to really even think about, did I wear that dressing?
Yeah. But it goes through my head for events.
You know, I passed you in the Met Gala line and I was like, I should say.
No way. Wait, you were there. Well, yeah, because I did red carpet and then I was like, Oh, man, she's like literally in interviews.
I was like, I'll see her in a little bit.
To be honest, I'm so blacked out in that setting.
Oh, I'm sure. I'm just like... Full robot mode.
Right. Who knows how pleasant that would have been.
I think I'm in a much more pleasant state of mind here.
You also always forget that Of course, your interviews are being filmed, but everybody on the carpet is being filmed about to go on the carpet.
Oh, well, that was new. Oh. That's never, so they decided to move the camera from the top. top of the steps to the bottom so everyone's in the back being filmed caused some drama.
Yeah, yeah, yeah. What's next for you? What's next for you?
What are you excited about? I'm really excited for women's wear.
That's pretty exciting to me. Huge. Because we're going to learn so much.
Like this first season, you know, some things might like fail terribly or... some things might sell out really quickly that we didn't expect.
And that's always really exciting because I worked retail for so long, like throughout college and After college and that learning experience is so valuable to a brand.
And I'm excited to see what happens there.
It's going to be huge. Do you think designing for women's wear is now designing for you?
It's probably more so the women in my family.
It's like my mom and her sisters when they were young.
At least that's what this last... collection was.
And I think that's the entire identity of the Bodhi woman. is my mom and her sisters.
I love that. I'm going to be wearing all of it.
Good. I can't wait. Thank you for coming in and flying here for me.
I mean, like. Oh my gosh, of course. I'm honored.
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