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[The Quest for Colorado-Style Pizza: A Search for Regional Identity]-[What Is Colorado Style Pizza?]

The Sporkful · B2 · 2025-11-10

Foods
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📋 Summary

The Quest for Colorado-Style Pizza: A Search for Regional Identity

In the diverse landscape of American pizza, regional identities are often sources of intense local pride. From the foldable slices of New York to the deep-dish tradition of Chicago and the crispy, caramelized edges of Detroit-style, pizza is rarely just food—it is a cultural marker. However, for Paul Caroli, a reporter and host, a peculiar question emerged after moving to Denver: Does "Colorado-style" pizza actually exist, and if so, why is it so elusive?

The Discovery of a "Honey Crust" Tradition

During his time exploring the Denver food scene, Caroli noticed a recurring, unconventional practice: pizzerias were providing squeeze bottles of honey on the table, intended specifically for drizzling over the pizza crust. This tradition was most famously associated with "Bojo's," a local chain established in 1973. Bojo's serves what they call a "mountain pie," characterized by a thick, braided, or rolled crust—resembling a "mountain bike tire"—which acts as an "ingredient containment system." For many Coloradans, the combination of this hearty, braided crust and a post-meal honey drizzle defines the local pizza experience.

The Rubric of a Regional Style

To determine if Colorado-style pizza belongs in the pantheon of American regional pies, Caroli consulted pizza expert Scott Wiener. Wiener outlines four criteria for a legitimate regional style:

  1. Multiplicity: Multiple, independently owned pizzerias serving the same style.
  2. Differentiation: A unique approach that stands out from other styles.
  3. Longevity: A history spanning at least a decade or two.
  4. Tie to the Region: A cultural or historical connection to the geography.

While Bojo's certainly fulfilled the criteria of longevity and differentiation (the honey-crust combination), it struggled with multiplicity. For years, Bojo's remained the sole prominent purveyor of this style, leaving the "Colorado-style" label feeling more like a private brand than a state-wide tradition.

The Trademark Roadblock

During his investigation, Caroli uncovered a surprising legal hurdle: Bojo's held a trademark on the phrase "Colorado-style pizza." This discovery served as a "major record scratch moment" for his research. Because the company enforced this trademark, other restaurants were effectively barred from using the label to describe their own pies, even if they adopted the braided crust and honey practice. This legal protection arguably stifled the natural evolution of the style, preventing it from spreading and gaining the "multiplicity" required to become a recognized regional staple.

The Evolution of an Identity

After years of persistence, Caroli finally secured an interview with the founder of Bojo's, Chip Baer. Baer, who is preparing to retire, revealed that the "honey on the crust" was an innovation attributed to an ex-girlfriend, while the "braided crust" was taught to him by an early employee named Patsy May. Regarding the trademark, Baer initially viewed it as a sound business decision, noting that unlike the organic development of Chicago or New York styles, he had specifically engineered a unique product that he felt deserved protection.

However, through dialogue with Caroli, Baer began to entertain the idea that the trademark might have hindered the growth of the very style he created. By the end of the investigation, the conversation shifted toward a potential "Taylor's version" strategy: if other pizzerias began adopting alternative names (such as "Denver-style"), they could potentially circumvent the trademark and allow the style to flourish independently.

Conclusion

While Scott Wiener maintains that Colorado-style pizza still lacks the widespread multiplicity to be officially categorized alongside Detroit or Chicago styles, the tradition remains a cherished, if localized, phenomenon. The quest revealed that regional food identities are not just about recipes; they are about history, legal frameworks, and the willingness of a community to claim a dish as their own. Ultimately, as Caroli concludes, the "Colorado-style" experience is not defined by its fame outside the state, but by the specific, honey-drizzled comfort it provides to those who call the Rockies home.

🎯Key Sentences

1
I fell in love with the woman who's now my wife.
2
I noticed something unfamiliar and kind of shocking to me.
3
We're getting serious about this honey crust thing.
4
I was kind of giving a heads up.
5
I'm sorry, you get all these weird phone calls every day.
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📝Key Phrases

1
take something to eat
2
source of local pride
3
on a quest to
4
wax nostalgic
5
put a pin in
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📖 Transcript

Sirius XM Podcasts.
Can you tell me the origin story of Colorado Style Pizza?
The origin story of Colorado Style Pizza.
All right.
This is going to be hard with the microphone this close because I have to lay back and get in a really comfortable position to start thinking about that.
I'll give you the real story, not the happy story, okay?

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