Good morning.
Hope you're having an amazing day.
It's Mark Wiens.
I'm in Beirut, Lebanon.
This is an amazing city with so much good food and amazing people.
Today we are going to take you on an ultimate, Ultimate street food tour.
Lebanese street food tour of Beirut.
We're gonna eat a lot of Lebanese food.
It's 5 a.m. in Beirut.
The city has not woken up yet, but there's this one food stall that's about to close and that's where we're beginning this ultimate Lebanese street food tour of Beirut.
Good morning, good morning.
How are you, man?
I'm good today.
You know, if it's just for the sound of the birds and Sleepy Beirut, This is worth it.
How are you, man?
Hi, I'm good.
I was just talking to the gentleman and he's almost running out of sandwiches.
Oh, okay.
Okay, let's go.
It's called Haj Nasr.
Step in here, it's just like a closet-sized little space.
You smell the aroma of the meat.
I know he does have some cooked meat, but also hopefully another specialty that's not cooked.
His open hours are from 2.30 a.m., sells out by 6 a.m., so he sells out before the city wakes up.
It's an awesome little spot.
Thank you.
This one is the raw meat?
Exactly.
Oh, this is the raw meat.
We ordered two different versions.
One is the kibbeh, which is the raw meat for breakfast.
And the other one we got is called sujuk.
And you know what I was surprised to see is that usually sujuk, I see it in the... Like sausages.
Like sausages, but it was spread.
That's a spread.
So it's probably the inside, you know, without the skin.
And the sujuk is cooked.
He did spread that out and then did put it on the hot plate for a bit.
Smells amazing.
I'm beginning with the kibbeh, the raw meat.
Lamb, right?
Minced lamb.
Minced lamb, the kibbeh.
You bite into the sandwich and immediately that garlic just like squeezes out.
The meat, like you wouldn't even know it's raw.
It just has a slight like cooling temperature.
That is incredible.
Oh wow.
Oh, the raw onions in there.
This might be the first time I've ever had raw meat for breakfast, and I'm very, very happy about it.
That raw meat almost acts like butter, like jam, meat jam.
That kibbeh's amazing.
Oh, this one's so good, dude.
Can't even describe this one.
Just like butter.
This one's so good, right?
It's like a jam.
It's meat jam.
Like they're both equally good.
I think you have to eat both of them.
Yeah, I'm really surprised at 5 a.m. that I'm actually enjoying this.
But it's really, really good.
Now that it's light, it's like a reasonable time to eat some raw meat.
Now that we've got light.
On my last bite of that, Kamal just said he ordered the liver version.
We gotta go see him make that.
It's really him.
How are you?
So we've got the kapka and the liver.
Mmm.
Mmm, should have peeled the paperback more for a bigger bite, but that liver is creamy.
We've got crunchy pickles in there, the juicy tomato, and garlic.
Look, you cannot eat enough garlic sauce when you're in Lebanon.
It's just unbelievably tasty.
And then we've got one more, the kafta, which is like the sausage.
The sausage, the kafta, it's a spiral of bread and meat and sausage.
Oh wow, it has this roasted flavor.
The tomatoes, the onions on here, crazily good.
It is stunning.
It's just stunning.
Thank you very much.
Thank you.
This is the spot like you can touch.
You can touch your arm on one side and your other arm on the other side, and it's called Haj Nasr.
That's the way to say it?
Yeah, Haj Nasr.
That's the way to go.
This is where you want to be eating in Beirut if you're up before 6 a.m.
This is where you want to be eating in Beirut even if you're not awake at 6 a.m.
Wake up and come eat here.
Really nice to meet you in person.
You too.
Nice to meet you.
That single bite of sandwich alone was worth coming to Lebanon for.
Next up, Kamel brought us to a bakery.
I love this place, 24 seven.
24 seven, thank you very much.
And pastries would be a very common part of Lebanese food culture.
Like snacks for breakfast, late night.
Just like you said, snacks.
Let's have a halloumi loaf.
So just bake a fresh loaf and they make like a sandwich with vegetables.
That sounds incredible.
And also, that's like white cheese, cheese with turkey, also white cheese minced meat.
Okay, awesome. bread with cheese on it or with za'atar with a thyme spice mixture and sesame seeds.
And then we're also gonna get a halloumi loaf.
I don't know what it is.
I know halloumi, but halloumi loaf, how good does it get?
And that's our piece of bread that he cooked in the oven and now he's gonna add the halloumi.
Okay.
If you don't say anything, it's for us.
Oh, it's for us too.
I didn't order that.
Oh wow.
Feast for the eyes.
Oh wow, had no idea.
I thought we were just gonna get a little loaf of halloumi.
I've only been in Beirut in Lebanon, for a very short time so far, but I can already tell you every meal in Lebanon is a festival.
The Lebanese people always say, which means the eye eats first before the mouth.
And this is what you see here.
It's got to look good before you even taste it.
More and more is here.
It's your mom.
Wow, what's this?
That's especially for you, Mark.
It's a... I've never seen it before.
It's a spiced up spinach pie.
Wow.
And it's really epic.
Chili paste and that's labneh in the middle.
I've never seen anything like it before.
Let's do a zaatar toast.
We're all starting with the...
Zatar is one of my favorite things in this region of the world.
I loved it when I was in Jordan.
Yeah, zatar.
Perfect with a sip of tea in the morning.
I don't know if Lebanese people do it or not.
I just can't resist going like this.
It's like a local.
Yes, and get some labneh.
Labneh and zaatar go very well together.
I'm trying to get this olive also in the mix.
Amazing.
That just like enriches it with mint.
Thank you.
I taste that with mint.
It's so rich, it's so thick.
Some of the fresh roca.
I can't wait to try that.
The halloumi loaf, right?
Stuffed within the bread.
The bread is just perfect with the sesame seeds.
Actually the perfect finish was.
He drizzled some olive oil and then sprinkled zaatar on top of the dough for a final touch.
The olive oil makes it so juicy.
The cheese, the halloumi, it's so thick.
It's such a hearty cheese wrapped up in that bread, which is baked perfectly.
And what I like about it is it's so juicy from that olive oil.
Like it's dripping with juices, maybe from the tomato as well.
That is an outstanding baked product.
And some more rocca.
I love the rocca.
One of their specialties here is the spinach little triangles.
They're kind of glazed in a mix of chili, pomegranate molasses, and spices.
Immediately as it hits your tongue on the outside, Your tongue like sizzles from the sourness.
You can taste that acid, like the pomegranate molasses, the chili in there.
And then you get to that spinach, which just kind of has like a caramelized spinach taste to it.
This is the final one.
This one is the cheese loaf stuffed with cheese.
When he took it out of the oven, it was just like oozing.
The cheese was just oozing all over the place.
The cheese is one with the bread now.
Just loving the fresh herbs, the mint.
You can take a bite of the pastry, the bread, taste it with tomatoes, roca, pickles, mint.
That was so good.
There's some serious, seriously next level baked goods.
We're on our way next to a legendary, it's a unique Lebanese traditional ice cream.
Same place since 1949, an ice cream shop on the corner.
And we're here at 7 a.m. is when they begin preparation for the day.
But if you come here at 7 a.m. like we are, perfect time.
Such a nice guy sharing his coffee in the morning with us.
He's such a community man, saying hi to people walking in the street, and that's what this place is.
It's about the community.
Everybody in Lebanon, everyone in Beirut considers this place an icon.
He is a hero of Beirut, bringing community together through their ice cream on this shop since 1949.
You will taste everything.
Awesome.
Perfect.
We begin with the milk with Mastika.
Okay.
Then you put the chocolate.
The pistachio.
You will add the caramelized almond.
Strawberry.
This is a traditional biscuit, everybody take it.
Yes.
The apricot.
The lemon.
And finally, the rose water.
I'll tell you why.
You start with the rose water to refresh your mouth, to take everything from it.
You start with the lemon, apricot, less acidity.
A little bit strawberry, some sweet, much sweeter caramelized almond, less sweeter pistachio chocolate and the milk.
Milk at the bottom will block your stomach.
If you have some acidity, it won't come down.
And here you are.
Thank you.
This is a feast.
This is a feast for the eyes. feast of ice cream, a celebration of ice cream.
To be honest, I was really in a dilemma whether to order the lemon or the pistachio, but when the owner said I will make you a mix with everything, that's the perfect solution.
Look at how many flavors.
Oh, the texture of that.
Oh, that's incredible.
Like it's not too creamy milky, it's more icy, but the flavor is so vibrant, not too sweet.
Oh man, that's like, I mean, he uses 100% all natural ingredients, no additives, no colorings.
I tasted the rose, I tasted the lemon in that bite.
Okay, I'm gonna sit down for my next few bites.
I have no words, I can't even describe what's going on.
It's really good, the strawberry and the pistachio now, next. and the caramelized almonds.
I honestly almost never sit down and eat an ice cream cone, but this is an exception.
This is worth it.
This is, it's really superb.
It really, I immediately know why.
He is a national Beirut Lebanese hero.
This ice cream is, it's like one of a kind in the world.
I'm loving that pistachio.
It gets a little more creamy when you start going down as well.
Mmm, and the chocolate is stuffed down there.
How you doing?
How you doing?
Oh yeah.
He could use that one himself.
Yeah, cheers.
Lemon?
Lemon.
That was really, really awesomely good.
We've got one more breakfast to go eat now.
When it was lemon, you could vibrantly taste the lemon.
When it was pistachio, you could vibrantly taste the pistachio.
Unlike any other ice cream you'll have, and it is a must when you're in Beirut.
Good morning, good morning.
Good morning.
Cheek peas.
That's like two dishes and things to be prepared.
Yogurt.
This is the whole story.
That skill, that expertise, he's been doing that for so long.
We got two main dishes and he was like doing them both, like flying around the kitchen.
I couldn't even follow.
Wow.
Salad rocca.
Salad rocca.
Thank you very much.
The spreads of food in Lebanon are almost unbelievable.
They whipped up this breakfast in about two minutes, flat.
In one bite.
You need to make sure to get the chickpeas, the bread, the yogurt, everything in one bite.
And notice he puts the bread on the side for it not to soak in the yogurt so it stays crunchy.
Okay, let's all join.
Let's do this.
The fatteh first.
What a stunning dish.
And as Kemal was explaining, you gotta get a little bit of everything.
The yogurt's so fresh.
The yogurt.
Onion?
Taste that with onion.
Chili?
Taste that with chili.
Yes please.
The creaminess and warmth of that yogurt. warms your heart going down.
The crunch of the bread, you've got the texture of the chickpeas within that silky yogurt.
That is extraordinary.
It's so warm and comforting.
I can't wait to try the egg with onion.
Onion is key.
Okay.
I'm going to actually get the good stuff.
So here's the good stuff.
The higher concentration of lamb.
Yes.
Look at that lamb and the way it's within the egg, how they fried it over such a high heat.
Oh, I'm gonna blanket, blanket some.
Oh wow.
The salted preserved lamb in its own fat.
The egg is really just a vessel for that lamb.
It's just holding the lamb together.
It's all about that lamb.
It's absurdly flavorful.
All the hummus also looks incredible.
The olive oil, the chickpeas on top.
He sprinkled on some paprika maybe?
Paprika.
Paprika.
And cumin.
Paprika and cumin.
And then that mint is so vibrant as well.
Oh man, that hummus is incredible.
Oh man.
That olive oil stands out.
His hummus is, it's not too foamy and not too thick.
It's like that balance in between.
You find all different textures of hummus.
His is like right in the middle there.
If you actually squeeze the omelet a little bit and lamb fat comes out, you know you've got a good omelet.
Yeah, that's a star.
That's just the star of the meal.
It's so good.
That's some of the best eggs you'll ever have in your life.
Okay, and I gotta try that raka salad with pomegranate syrup.
I was gonna say this salad is gonna balance the lamb and eggs, but it actually is served to balance the lamb and eggs, to refresh with pomegranate syrup.
That was extraordinary.
And now we're all gonna have a photo together.
Oh man, it's so good.
Thank you, thank you.
And by the way, they've been here for 129 years, 129 years I think.
Awarma, right, it's called awarma?
Awarma was the lamb.
It's just changed my life forever for the better.
Eggs, I don't think I can look at eggs the same again without awarma.
That was just unbelievably good.
Wait, oh, van is over back there.
Sometimes when food is so good, I just start walking off totally disoriented.
Okay, we're moving on.
Such nice people, huh?
They're such cool people.
What an amazing man.
What an amazing man.
So friendly, he's welcomed us in.
This is a falafel restaurant that's been going for 45 years.
He's been the man.
They're donut cakes.
I should come back to Abbas again once in a while.
One of the most unique things and I've never seen this at any falafel place ever before is that his falafels are little donut shaped.
So he fills the batter into that little mold, adds on some sesame seeds, a top layer of sesame seeds, pokes a little hole in it and then it goes into the oil and they turn into little donut shapes and that's because he wants it to fry evenly.
You have more deep-fried real estate.
That's always a good idea.
That's a genius move when it comes to falafel, though.
Three, two, one.
He dipped it in the tahini and the, oh man, I love that donut shaped design.
Oh, that's hot.
The crispiness, the texture of this one is amazing.
It's less herbaceous, but more hearty.
That's an amazing texture.
Wow.
Okay.
Okay, okay.
Homemade, homemade, no cheating, real chili cheese cake.
Those are some unbelievable sandwich-making skills.
What I love is he takes the hot, fresh falafel, puts it onto the bread, squishes it with his fingers, and that might be the most satisfying sound.
I don't know if I captured it, but it goes like .
Then he adds on mostly mint, I believe, then some pickles, some tahini, some tomatoes, and I got his extra hot spicy sauce that he makes from scratch himself.
Everything is made from scratch himself.
Oh man, that looks so good and the way he just the expertise at which he makes the sandwiches is just unbelievable.
It's been doing this for 70 years.
That's what he says.
That's what you see, you see 70 years of love.
70 years of experience in this falafel sandwich.
Five years old when he started making falafel.
Immediately you taste the mint in there, the fresh mint, the tahini, the pickles.
Yeah again, not only the falafel but his entire sandwich recipe.
All the ingredients come together, the sum of all the ingredients.
Pickled chilies.
Mmm.
Wow.
That is like a burst of salty juiciness.
Alternate bites of the falafel with the chili.
Falafel chili.
Get that burst of salty juiciness.
Oh, that's good.
And that chili sauce looks like tahini.
Oh man.
And they're very healthy.
Good, good.
So good, yeah?
It's tasty.
For sure.
I got it.
Thank you, buddy.
Thank you.
Next up on this ultimate Lebanese street food tour of Beirut, we stopped by a bakery which, oh man, I can smell like the fumes coming out.
Oh, what is this place called?
Iskanyan.
Iskanyan, yes.
Iskanyan.
Iskanyan.
This is an Armenian-Lebanese bakery, but there's a big population of Armenians in Beirut, and so mainly what they serve here is the lahmacun, which is a very thin bread with meat on it, but they also have a vegetarian version.
So they knead out, they roll out the dough, He puts on a layer of the meat, spread then over to the oven.
That oven is so deep.
Those paddles.
Those are like literally, boat paddles that he's using to reach into the oven, to pull those out of the oven.
Huge oven.
Got seats outside in the front, the breeze coming down the street.
Got the aryan, which is the yogurt drink to drink with it.
Two different versions.
One is the lahmacun, just the standard one.
One is with pomegranate.
This is kind of convenient if you get them both.
You can alternate bites.
Oh.
It's awesome.
It's like, I mean, it's as perfect as possible.
Thin bread, a layer of meat spread, cooked in the oven, dressed with lemon juice and chili.
That salted yogurt, that cools, that refreshes, that's delicious.
Okay, then the next one, this one should be the one with the pomegranate, I think.
Mmm.
I'm not even totally sure if this one is the pomegranate or not.
What really stands out to me is that freshly cut parsley on there.
It's so vibrant, it's so green to contrast that meat, to contrast that bread.
The bread is the highlight though.
That bread is perfect.
Okay, this one I think is back to the pomegranate one.
It's very subtle though.
You do taste that it's a little bit sweeter and no parsley.
These are both incredibly good.
I have one ready for you for the video.
Yes, just pulling up.
You can see the cabinet from the window, and he just pulled one up as we're arriving.
Pulled one out of the cabinet as we're arriving.
This is a true Lebanese street food spot.
You ready, buddy?
I'm up for it.
Wow.
This place is known for what's in the cabinet, lamb heads.
We decided to have him open the head and take out all the meat and the parts, because he knows how he's doing.
He knows what he's doing way better than we do.
And he just like, that thing is so soft.
It just falls off the bone and the pieces just fall out.
It's so tender, that's it.
Yeah, he knows.
That would have probably taken me an hour to dismantle that.
I had to get all the bones.
He peeled back all the pieces, peeled the tongue.
He did it expertly, he did it so fast.
This is what it all comes down to, an entire head of lamb meat, deboned.
It's just all things of the head.
And then he comes with a soup that he explained to us is their own secret recipe, added in some special sauce, added in some lemon juice and mint and then served with some some vegetables and lemon on the side as well.
I'll begin with a tamer chunk, I think this must be cheek meat here or something.
Maybe cheek meat, that just looks delicious.
Quick dip into their special salt seasoning.
Look at the tenderness of that meat and the oily fattiness.
That is a pro move, man.
Dip in the soup, bit in the spices.
Oh, it's so tender.
That's just like gooey.
It's so tender.
Oh, wow.
Do you have the cheek?
I think I have the cheek, right?
That's the cheek, right?
Check out this entire tongue section.
That is quite a chunk of meat.
It's a whole chunk.
Okay, here's a piece of the tongue.
I gotta try Campbell's pro move, a dip in the soup.
Spiced salt.
Oh, wow.
Yeah, seriously.
The tongue is amazing.
It's so tender, it's so flavorful.
It's like pure lamb, there's no denial.
No denial of the lambiness of that.
The mandibles, these are like, I don't know what that is, that's some kind of casing.
Not totally sure what this is, but I think it might be the eyeball casing.
Yeah?
This one, I wanna submerge this.
You should try it.
It's kinda like it tastes like pure fat but then like Kinda chewy at the same time.
It's really flavorful though.
Like it's a lot of lamb liver.
This piece looks like perfectly crunchy.
Like crunchy and fatty.
Could be the top of the head or something.
That piece is amazing.
It's so crispy, but so gooey tender at the same time.
Wow, that's a lot of fatty meat for sure, but what I love about the head is there's so many different textures.
Every part is an adventure, and that's what makes a lamb head so great.
Oh man, that is liquid lamb.
Oh, because it was only steamed.
It was the pure taste of the lamb, nothing covering up the taste of the lamb.
So it's as lamby as possible.
We're walking now on our way to eat this special dessert and learn about this special dessert that's only eaten and made right here in Beirut.
This is the only place you can get it, and it's a unique dessert.
It's also, maybe there's only been one place to eat it here in Beirut.
Hello.
Nice to meet you.
Yes, appreciate to meet you.
Thank you, you too.
Welcome, welcome.
Thank you.
We put first sugar.
Ah, okay.
Rice, and flour, and we put... Alright.
This is the flower.
I don't know in English.
What's it's name again?
Turmeric.
Yeah, I think this is, I mean it's unique to Beirut.
You have to come to Beirut.
In the only place in the world to eat this.
Thank you.
Oh, the turmeric is immediate.
And then I just want more.
Are there nuts, pine nuts in it too?
Really really nice, not too sweet.
That's such a rich, such a thick rice pudding.
Immediately you taste that turmeric like vibrantly gummy rice, but then broken up with texture with the pine nuts in there.
This place is truly a part of Beiruti heritage and history.
The recipe for the Mfata has been in the family, their family, for 200 years.
They've been practicing the recipe, making the recipe.
They invented the recipe.
And then this shop was opened I think in 1965, but it's like a museum in here.
Got some takeaway.
Yeah, my mom loves this, so I couldn't miss the chance to take her some.
Yeah, sure.
Such a cool shop.
Such nice guys.
And I just love how they're preserving their traditional family recipe, this traditional shop.
And it is a living museum in Beirut.
I am starting to slow down on this ultimate Lebanese food tour of Beirut.
I think like having those four breakfasts was that foundation, that was a lot.
But there's still a few more things to eat, specifically one of the ultimate dishes you have to eat when you're in Lebanon.
Can't wait to eat what's next.
This is called Josef, famous for their shawarma.
Those upright skewers of shawarma.
They are huge, they are circling, they are dripping with juices and the aroma of meat is just protruding out of this stall.
Oh man, it smells good.
It's like a cascading waterfall where the drips just slowly fall down the rocks and the layers.
And what's genius about this shawarma is how there's just an entire layer of fat at the top which slowly drips down, just saturating the meat as it goes down and soaking it up, and the fat and the juices just drip down into a puddle at the bottom, a puddle of fat and juices, meat juices.
It's like a hypo-style hall, it's like a pillar, a pillar of shawarma.
Okay, sure.
Thank you.
Okay, I'm on.
This is an honor.
I have a chance to slice the shawarma for the first time.
Okay.
It's really thin, I know.
Okay.
Cut here.
Oh, you wanna get the part that's... Oh man, that is the most satisfying knife cut you'll ever have.
Thank you.
Wake up.
It is definitely way harder than it looks, especially with that fire just in your face.
Your face is just hot the entire time you're slicing.
And you have to make sure it's thin.
I can do it very slowly, but he just goes all the way down.
That's an art, that is a skill.
Very, a lot of respect for these guys.
Okay.
Okay, my face is burning hot.
And I think our shawarmas are ready.
So Fadi and I are gonna split.
We get a half of each, half of beef, half of chicken.
Okay, so for the chicken, he takes the bread.
They put garlic sauce in it.
There's pickles, there's lettuce, and then he shaves off the chicken again, marinates the chicken in its own fatty juices, shoves that into the bread, adds in some fries and then rolls it up.
And they do it like, they roll it tight.
They like make sure it's tight in there.
And let me tell you what really makes a good shawarma chicken sandwich.
It's the garlic sauce.
That's what makes it really good or not really good.
It's what brings everything together.
In this area of the world, never eat chicken without garlic sauce.
Tear off the paper.
We've almost completed this ultimate street food tour of Beirut.
Oh wow.
Like the crunchiness of that chicken.
Oh, the garlic.
The garlic immediately.
Yeah, immediately.
Just before everything else, it just exploded in my mouth.
The garlic.
It is all about that garlic.
The crunchy chicken, the crispy pickles, the starchy fries.
But that garlic.
You're right.
And so with the beef is tahini, but the chicken is garlic sauce.
Exactly.
Okay.
Okay.
Oh man, this is a thing of beauty.
Look at how tightly squeezed in it is.
It's like a roll of sushi almost.
It's perfected, it's a masterpiece.
Okay, it's the beef.
Yeah, absolutely.
It's not even a competition.
Chicken is really good, but the beef is just next level.
That tahini in there, that's awesome.
They have fully perfected, mastered the shawarma.
Or it's more like a, we're just gonna call it a shawarma column.
It is extraordinary.
The purest way of eating shawarma is like this.
Somebody just came with a plate of just the pure meat.
And you can see, like that, you can just see perfectly the layers of meat.
Oh yeah.
It just crumbles in your mouth.
Okay, I'm down to my final bite of shawarma, and this is the best bite too, because it's soaked up all the juices.
Now as an occasion you have to just lean back.
I'm just gonna continue that leaned back position in the car.
Final stop on this ultimate street food tour of Beirut.
This is not exactly a street food place.
This is like a boutique dessert restaurant, but we're just stopping here to have a bite of dessert, a few bites of dessert to finish off this tour.
To just end grand finale, because they're well known here for their kunafi.
I've had it before in a few different destinations around this region, but it is like it's like the king of all desserts in this region of the world, but I've never had it the Lebanese way.
You have to cradle it.
The cheese is oozing out.
There's so much cheese in there.
Wow.
That melted cheese.
I wasn't expecting it to be so warm and hot.
I think that's what makes it, because the cheese is melty and oozy and then you taste the syrup, the rose water essence and then the I think it's the semolina that has kind of a texture to it.
So in Lebanon they say kanafeh is a full meal, a full, complete meal, and if you eat this whole thing it really is an entire meal.
You've got like, that has to be like, like a few hundred grams of cheese in this bun.
We've reached the end, the conclusion of this ultimate Lebanese street food tour of Beirut.
It's been just an impressive day, an amazing day.
We met so many cool people along the way.
Beirut is an amazing city and I love the contrast, the diversity of the city as well.
Some areas are ancient, some are new.
It's the history.
Beirut has been through a lot, but it's the people that make it.
It's the people that hold it together.
It's the food that holds it together.
What a food city.
I wanna say a big thank you to USAID, USAID for funding my trip to Lebanon.
And I'll have all the information in the description box.
I wanna say a huge thank you to you also for watching this video.
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I'm gonna be publishing an entire Lebanese food and travel series so you can watch all the videos.
We're going to travel around the country and learn about the food and the people.
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