Hello, this is Matt and McKinley from History Dispatches.
We are the father -son duo bringing you the weird, the wild, the wacky, and the craziest tales from across time.
From the ice bowl to the great heathen army and the head of Oliver Cromwell.
The same head they kept on a pike for three years?
Yep, all here on History Dispatches.
New episodes every weekday.
Find out more at historydispatches .com or wherever you get your podcast app.
Pam are you here to game with me?
In a minute Ryan, but first it's time to share what's happening on the 10 News podcast. The 10 news is a kid's news podcast for curious eight to 12 year olds that even grown -ups can learn from.
What else is there to say?
That we cover everything from the Supreme Court and the war in Ukraine to Pokemon and Minecraft and we'll always tell you 10 things you need to know.
And we're available wherever you get your podcasts.
Is it game time now, Pam?
It's game time, Ryan.
Let's go! You're listening to an Airwave Media Podcast. Hi, everyone, it's Mike Sullivan!
And welcome to the Past in the Curious, episode 105.
This episode comes on the heels of a visit to Chicago.
I had a great time meeting people.
Thanks to those of you who came out.
hope to see more of you down the road.
So yeah, this episode is about two people that tied to Chicago.
Not just Chicago, they tied to food.
This is about a man named Chen Foin who had a hand, a big role, in the first Chinese cookbook in America and Rufus Estes, the first African -American, not the first to publish a cookbook, but one of the most notable early cookbook authors.
and they both lived in Chicago, at the same time.
And both books in question, made their way to the world in 1911.
It's weird how things like that work, right?
They all happened at the same time.
Well, it made me very hungry talking about this episode, working on this episode, recording this episode.
So while you listen, I'm gonna go get something to eat.
All right, see you on the backside.
But somewhere, way back in time, long before we as people were writing stuff down, something amazing happened, thanks to our ancestors.
And I mean our collective ancestors all over the world.
Maybe you've heard of societies or groups of people who were hunter -gatherers.
This was a common way to survive.
of. Hunt for meat, gather plants and nuts, rinse and repeat.
Over time, we learned what plants were edible and probably also figured out which plants were not.
So please, let's have a moment of silence for those long lost ancestors who ate bad plants.
But three cheers for the ancestors who found the good ones!
I think I speak for everyone when I say, thanks for broccoli and spinach, my buds!
But things really started to change when the gathering part of Hunting and Gathering began to lose its total importance.
It happened because people took an active role in growing the plants rather than relying on nature to do it.
Smart, observant people began keeping seeds from the biggest, the heartiest, or the tastiest plants of a species, and then planting those to grow the next season's plants.
This selective process changed what we grew over the years.
It was a way to pick the qualities of food that we like and try to grow more that were similar.
This human intervention is called plant domestication and archaeologists have agreed that at half a dozen places around the world, very early humans used the idea to change their world and ours.
These places are called World Hearth Sites, places where independent of one another, people chose specific seeds to grow the best plants.
The process repeated itself over and over again each year for eons until the selected plants changed over time to have the properties that humans wanted the most. Eventually, they began to resemble the plants that we eat today.
This was all done by human observation, selection, and intelligence.
Really, it's science in action.
So, good work, people from long ago!
Through careful research and science, today archaeologists can determine where the foods crucial to human development were domesticated.
All thanks to those early ancestors who we can all proudly claim.
In the Middle East people domesticated wheat and barley, which gives us cereals and breads and pasta and cookies.
In Africa, people domesticated soybeans and millet.
From people in current -day Mexico, we got corn.
From present -day Peru in South America, we got potatoes.
And from the eastern Woodland people of North America we got sunflower and squash among other lesser used plants today.
And from East Asia, thousands of years ago near the Yangtze River in China, We got the gift of rice.
And what a gift it's been!
Rice is one of the most important and most popular foods in the world.
But with many foods specific to cultures around the world, getting those foods to other cultures required people interacting, sharing, trading, and, in more modern cases, bringing their foods personally to new places.
So now, we're going to skip ahead.
a whole lot of time.
We're gonna jump centuries ahead actually, to talk about how meals of rice and other Chinese foods made their way into modern America.
I love my local Chinese restaurant.
I am a regular there, and the owner actually lives just down the street from me.
And while eating my favorite dish one night, it made me wonder about the history of Chinese food and Chinese restaurants outside of China.
And it all starts You guessed it, with people moving to new lands.
And one story that is often told about the rise of Chinese food in America focuses on one man named Chen Foyin.
Chen Foyin's family was like thousands of others who, in the mid 1800's, fled China for the west coast of America.
The gold rush was going on in California, and that's where many found work.
And while Chinese immigrants were tolerated by the local population, they weren't welcomed with open arms. And then, when the transcontinental railroads was being built, many Chinese immigrants found work laying the tracks heading from the West to the East. It was back -breaking, hard work.
And these Chinese workers were instrumental to its success, and they often ate rice with added meats and vegetables on lunch breaks.
Likewise, many Chinese who stayed in San Francisco and nearby during and after the gold rush opened small restaurants, mostly serving traditional Chinese fare for other immigrants.
The other people in the area rarely ate Chinese food.
After the gold rush and the railroad were complete, there were fewer jobs, so many Chinese people found themselves in competition for work with other Americans in the West. And this often led to violence.
And it also led to a national law, the Chinese Exclusion Act.
This law from 1882 was the first major law in America to prevent immigration based on nationality.
It said no Chinese laborers could come to the United States.
It also prevented any Chinese immigrants already in America from becoming citizens.
This would include Chen Foyn's family, who had seen Gold Rush, and who had seen the railroad, and who had seen the struggle for work in the years after.
But they persevered, and they changed America, for the better, and for the tastier.
When Chen was a young man, his family was in search of new opportunity, along with a new place to live.
And the World's Fair of 1893 brought them to Chicago.
There they found a big city with few other Chinese immigrants and they saw the possibility for business.
It was in Chicago that Chen Foyn made his impact.
The relatively low number of Chinese people in Chicago at the time wasn't a problem in his eyes.
He wasn't looking to feed an immigrant community, he was looking to feed everyone else in Chicago.
Because really, who doesn't love noodles, rice, delectable sauces, and mixing all of that stuff with other delicious things?
If they didn't know it yet, the people of Chicago would learn quickly how delicious those things can be.
Now his first restaurants were like many other Chinese restaurants in America at the time.
On the second floor of buildings, or in the backs of other businesses.
This meant that someone had to go looking for them.
It's not great for foot traffic, but if you knew, you knew.
And with his first ventures, he did pretty well.
You gotta start somewhere, but Chin Foyn had bigger dreams. He knew that Chicagoans with money like to go to the theater.
They like to enjoy the ballet and take in the Opera.
And he also knew that those fancy nights out usually included a meal.
So putting a restaurant right in the same area as those attractions would be smart.
But more importantly, why not make the meals as fancy as the rest of the evening.
His most famous restaurant opened in 1911 and it was called the Mandarin Inn.
And when you walked into the front door right there on South Wabash Avenue, your senses would have been overcome.
The smells were amazing, thanks both to the crowded dining room filled with eager eaters and with plates of deliciousness, but also because of the open kitchen.
Chen knew that some people held dim views of Chinese cooking, so with an open kitchen it was plain to see how clean and healthy the Mandarin Inn was.
Speaking of seeing, your eyes would amaze at the lavish décor, plants and fine woods and gilded accents and colorful fabric and great lighting.
Your ears would be met with the sounds of an orchestra, an opera singer, or, in many cases, the sound of the pipe organ that chin foin had installed for the musical offerings that diners would enjoy every night.
Waiters were dressed nicely, but not as nice as the man himself, because there in the middle of it all was Chen Foon wearing a tuxedo and sometimes a cape to boot.
He was a celebrity and his food brought all walks of life.
Ladies shopping in the loop, arts lovers out for a night on the town, families celebrating a special occasion, politicians, dignitaries, and even, it was said, Chicago crime leader Al Capone himself, a notable fan of Chinese food.
A lot of times when you go to a fancy -pants restaurant, you eat over a fancy white tablecloth.
Never really made that much sense to me, because with sauces and soups and such sliding around and slipping from spoons, stains are impossible not to see.
Even still, it's so common that when describing nice restaurants to someone, it's common to call a fancy place white tablecloth if you want them to know that it is a formal restaurant.
It's been said that Chen Fuyen was the first restauranteer in America to use white tablecloths.
I don't think that's true, but he was certainly early on this trend, and it was another way for him to showcase the quality of the Mandarin Inn.
The Mandarin Inn made a huge impact on Chicago and visitors to the area.
It was a must eat destination for food lovers.
One big fan was a woman who worked in the neighborhood.
Her name was Jessie Louise Knowlton and she loved the food so much she spoke regularly with Chin and his chefs.
She realized that more and more people were eating and enjoying Chinese food, but many were still unfamiliar.
Others wondered about cooking it themselves.
So she self -published a cookbook.
Chinese Cookery in the Kitchen.
It was the first Chinese cookbook published in the English language and most historians agree that the recipes, for the most part, came from Chen and his chefs.
Yeah, it may seem unfair that they didn't get credit nor compensation and that's probably a correct reaction.
However this did cement Chen Foyin's legacy and impact on the acceptance and love for Chinese food in America." And Chen did very well.
His family lived in one of Chicago's fanciest neighborhoods, which required him to confront and challenge some people's racism.
Several tried to keep the Foyn's out of the neighborhood.
They did not succeed.
I don't know about you, but I'm going to think of Chen Foyn the next time I sit down to eat my favorite Lo Mein dish from my favorite local Chinese restaurant.
And I'll also think about people thousands of years ago who first bred rice near the Yangtze River.
And I guess I'll think about those ancient Peruvians the next time I eat a potato.
And the folks from the Middle East the next time I eat toast. You get the idea.
Hello fellow grownup, I have kids.
They're probably kids in your life, and we gronies certainly want to do the best for our children and set them up for success.
So, if your child is struggling with a specific subject or they need help with a subject, or if your child is ahead and not getting challenged enough in class, well, then I'd like you to know about iXl.
iXl Learning is an online learning program that enriches your homeschool curriculum.
It offers practice in math, English language, art, science, social studies, and all along it adapts to each child, meeting them where they are.
Plus, iXL encourages students to be curious and empowers them to choose how they learn.
I've been there. Probably will be there again.
It's part of raising kids, I think.
Sometimes we find ourselves catching up, or other times we focus on getting ahead on learning, which is always great for confidence.
Well, everything on iXL is organized by grade, subject, topic, subtopic, making it simple to find activities for the exact skills you are covering so it's easy to use and time saving.
Ixl also offers instant feedback and explanation of new topics as kids use the program and lastly it's fun for kids.
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Grownups, groanies, groaniebolognes, do you have a brain?
Of course you do you beautiful creature, but does your brain seem to be at full capacity with to -do's, errands, birthdays, homework assignments and maybe what's for dinner on Thursday?
Well, I'm here to tell you folks we recently got a skylight calendar in my home and it is a game changer I love it.
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My kids are involved in marking stuff off the list. It's great I really, really like it!
Skylight Calendar was designed to connect the digital and non -digital worlds while bringing families together.
It is a Wi -Fi -connected digital display that showcases your family's schedule with clarity, color, and brilliance in either a 10 - or 15 -inch HD touchscreen.
This all -in -one smart calendar syncs seamlessly with Google Calendar, Apple Calendar, Outlook, and more, giving you customizable views for daily, weekly, or monthly planning.
You will be able to manage events, chores, and grocery lists while assigning colors to each of your family members and eliminating excuses for not knowing what they need to do.
And with the free Skylight Companion app, you can add or update events, lists, and more on the go.
Your happiness is Skylight's happiness, so if in 120 days you are not 100 % thrilled with your purchase, you can return it for a full refund.
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Right now Skylight is offering our listeners $30 off their 15 inch calendars by going to skylightcal .com slash curious so go to skylightcal .com slash curious for $30 off your 15 inch calendar that's k -y -l -i -g -h -t -c -a -l .com slash, curious.
Thanks, groany balonies.
OK, you have 30 seconds, and Ellie and Gunnar are about to come up in here with a lot of energy to talk about Velma B.
Johnson. Take it away.
This is Ellie. I'm Gunnar, and I want to talk about Velma Ben Johnson, also known as Linus R. Johnson.
She was born in 1912 in Nevada.
she got polio at eleven.
Worked to, to save wild horses from being made into pet food.
She loved horses. Uh.
And, uh. The end. The end.
That was great. Uh.
Thank you so much for sending that.
Uh. If anyone out there else.
I've got a bunch of them.
I always need more.
Ya'll keep sending your You have thirty seconds because it's a lot of fun and it's great to feature you on here.
Great work, Elly and Gunner, great work, loved it!
If you have a you have a you have a you have a you have a 30 seconds that you would like to send my way it's very simple.
Just hit record on a voice memo, maybe have somebody give you some hand signals with a timer so they know that you're in 30 seconds.
And send it to hello at the past and the curious.
I'm eager to hear what you want to tell me about.
It's quiz time, it's quiz time, it's quiz time.
Time, time, time. Yep, you heard the man, the me, me it's quiz time.
Ok you ready? Let's do this, it's food questions, short and sweet.
What was the first food eaten in space by a human being?
Back in 1962, a man named John Glenn ate applesauce while in space.
That's probably not something Johnny Appleseed would have imagined just a century before.
But there we go. Alright, question number 2.
Inspired by soldiers eating special candy, in 1941 Forest Mars and Bruce Murray collaborated on their own colorful candy that is still popular today.
What is it? Soldiers during the Spanish Civil War ate British -made chocolates that had this like thin candy shell that kept them from melting in their pockets while Mars and Murray then created the colorful version M &Ms. That's where the you've heard the tagline, uh, melt in your mouth, not in your hands or pocket.
I think they left the pocket part out.
M &Ms come in all sorts of different versions now, including some that we have upstairs in my house right now, peanut butter and jelly, what?
I don't know how they are.
Okay question number three.
When ketchup was first marketed in 1834 in America, it wasn't for dipping fries or for putting on hot dogs… what was it initially sold to do?
Perhaps you might think it was a natural house paint, or nail polish remover, or a hair tonic.
If you thought of any of these, were you right?
No. No, you were worse than right.
You were wrong. Really wrong.
Ketchup was actually sold as a medicine.
Dr. John Cook Bennett sold ketchup to treat indigestion and diarrhea.
He even made a version of ketchup in a pill form so you didn't have to taste it.
Made dipping fries very difficult to do.
If you ever write a cookbook, you're probably going to rack your brain for the perfect title to grab someone's attention.
time. It should be memorable and clearly say exactly what your cookbook is about, right?
But I'm sorry to tell you that you'll never have the perfect title.
That is because, in 1911, a man named Rufus Estes self -published a cookbook with THE PERFECT TITLE.
And now that title is taken, so any other cookbook titles can merely be a tribute.
A tribute to the greatest cookbook title in history.
Are you ready? Are you sitting down?
Oh hi! I'm Rufus Estus.
You might know me from my delicious dishes.
I have fed presidents and princesses, icons and everyday people.
And now I'm giving you the result of my years of cooking experience.
It's all right here in my new book, Good Things to Eat.
If you're ever looking for good things to eat you can learn all about all kinds of good things to eat in my sure -to -be smash hit book, Good Things to Eat.
Once again that's good things to eat!
That's right good things to eat.
Actually there's a little more to it.
Good Things to Eat, as suggested by Rufus, is the official title of the pivotal cookbook.
It's one of the very first written by an African American, and one that left a huge impact on culture.
From potatoes to poultry, cakes to steaks, Rufus made it better than nearly anyone.
And with his book, he gave everyone the proverbial keys to the kitchen.
And the keys were valuable.
Rufus was one of the most respected chefs in America.
And his resume, you know, the assortment of jobs he had worked and kitchens he had been in charge of, was most impressive.
Not as impressive though as just having a few bites of his cooking.
Anyone who was lucky enough to enjoy a Rufus dish, certainly 100 % absolutely responded the same way.
Mmm! These are good things to eat!
I mean, well, probably, right?
Surely. Rufus Estes was born in Tennessee in 1857, where his family was enslaved.
He was the youngest of nine kids, and quite small when the Civil War began.
As he said it, nearly all the enslaved men in the neighborhood for miles around ran off and joined the Yankees.
Because several of his older brothers joined the war, that left him, just a young child, with a lot of responsibility.
He remembered at the age of five hauling water from a nearby spring, feeding cattle and tending to the young calves.
But a few years later, when two of his brothers did not return from the war, he recognized that their deaths had deeply affected his mother.
In 1867, after the war and emancipation, the family moved to Nashville to live with his grandmother.
Even at that young age he felt a duty to help his mother, whose health had suffered with the grief from her loss.
I thought I could be better of service to her and prolong her life by getting work, he had said.
Quite a thought for a young kid.
So, he milked cows, carried lunches to laborers working in fields, and earned money however else he could.
But at the age of 16, his life took a sharp turn towards his future.
His future in food.
He got a job at a well known and fancy restaurant called Hemp Hills.
It was here that he learned his first lessons in the art of restaurant deliciousness and laid the groundwork for a career as a chef.
He worked at Hemphill's until the owner sold it in 1881.
Rather than stick around or find a new gig in Nashville, he followed the growing crowds moving up north to Chicago, Illinois.
In the Gilded Age, as the time was known, Chicago had grown to be one of America's most important cities.
Thousands of workers moved there for employment and worked incredibly hard, often for not much money.
Plenty of other people in town had a lot of money.
Most of those people did not work as hard, or at all.
But they like to eat.
And that's where Rufus came in.
He described his first job in Chicago as 77 Clark Street.
A bit of research suggests that the restaurant at 77 Clark Street at the time was a French restaurant which was creatively named the French restaurant.
Maybe the owner's unimaginative yet crystal clear descriptive restaurant name would serve as an inspiration for Rufus' future book title.
In any case, in two years as head line chef at the French restaurant, Rufus certainly perfected many good things to eat.
And it's also where he became an expert saucer.
Cucumber sauce, gherkin sauce, giblet sauce, gooseberry sauce.
Rufus was a sorcerer with sauces.
A saucerer! Horse radish sauce, ham sauce, sassala matkaf, royal sauce, sauce tartare, even a special sauce just for fried pike.
That's a Northern freshwater fish with a mouth full of teeth, if you didn't know.
Anyway, all of this saucy food led to his most famous job.
Rufus Estus, like many other black men of his time in America, found work with the Pullman Rail Company.
George Pullman revolutionized train travel with his famous Pullman Palace cars, many of which were as nice as fine hotels.
And he famously employed thousands of African American men, many of them former enslaved, as Pullman porters.
The work these men did, despite the racism they often suffered, led to two major things.
First, their income put thousands of Black families into America's middle class.
They bought homes, they sent their kids to college, they founded businesses.
But the Pullman Porters also unionized and became a huge part of the civil handlers on the train and more and they fought for fair wages and for fair working hours.
But Rufus was behind the scenes.
He was a chef after all, which came with status but also meant cooking in cramped quarters on a train.
As you can imagine, there was not a lot of room for a big kitchen and a train car.
But space was of no consequence to Rufus.
He could sauce and souffle in a closet with his eyes closed and one arm tied behind his back.
His abilities meant that he was often in charge of the food on the most important and fanciest train cars.
So Benjamin Harrison and Grover Cleveland, both of whom were presidents, enjoyed his food.
As did the famous actor and brother of an assassin, Edwin Booth.
He also fed Helena Majeska, a world famous stage actress in her day, and the namesake of a still popular and much beloved marshmallow and caramel candy.
When Spain's Princess Eulalia came to the 1893 World's Fair in Chicago, she savored his special saucy suppers as she traveled on board a beautiful Pullman Palace Car.
As his recipe repertoire grew, so did his accolades.
Rufus's friends began trying to convince him to publish a cookbook.
Black cooks had published a few, but none of those books were hits, and none of the authors were professional chefs with resume quite like Rufus.
So they figured his could certainly stand out.
As you'll recall from the first half of this episode 1911 was the year the Chinese immigrant Chen Foyn opened his famous Mandarin Inn in Chicago.
And it was also in 1911 when Chicagoan Jesse Louise Knowlton published the first Chinese cookbook in America, which she had largely based on Chen Foyn's famous recipes.
Well in addition, it was that same year, again 1911, when Rufus Estes published his own pivotal cookbook, and from the city of Chicago no less.
Good Things to Eat did not have a lot of specific amounts for ingredients if you read it as a recipe book, it was more of a glossary with general directions for hundreds of dishes.
Over 600 actually. from stuffed steamed onions and banana sandwiches to baked cherry pudding and broiled mackerel.
Alas, there is no recipe for lava chicken but there is one for jelly chicken.
Thanks for indulging me and my kids on that one!
And also, as a complete aside, I have to tell you, I ran into Jack Black on the sidewalk one time in my hometown and in surprised excitement, I didn't know what was up, and he was very nice.
So we're practically friends now.
Just kidding. But I feel like he would appreciate the tribute… I mean, after all, it is in the name of Rufus, and I think we all agree that Rufus deserves the recognition.
Anyway, after time with the Pullman rail company, Rufus worked on private cars for wealthy industrialists as well as on ocean liners.
And this gave him a chance at some international travel.
One of his favorite trips was the visit he made to Japan for the Cherry Blossom Festival.
people. And after leaving the railroad and travelling life entirely, he worked in restaurants in Los Angeles, California until his passing in 1939.
There wasn't much fanfare for him at the time.
Like I said, he still deserves more recognition, but people's awareness of Rufus Estes and his important place in history has been growing.
It's believed that there are fewer than a dozen original copies of his book in the world.
But reproductions are super easy to get now and it is in the public domain, so you can find it digitally for free online.
It's a really interesting thing to flip through, I'll post a link to it on the website and you can have a look through it to see what sounds familiar, strange, or deliciously interesting.
There are plenty of good things to eat in Good Things to Eat, so if you're ever struggling about what to have for dinner, I humbly suggest you consider something as suggested by Rufus.
Also, one of my favorite social media profiles is this guy who has a channel called Sandwiches of History.
Maybe you're familiar.
I'll post a link to that as well.
He goes back to old cookbooks and finds sandwich recipes and then makes them today and you can watch him eat them and he gives commentary and then he makes some adjustments to try to, as he calls it, plus up.
It's great. It's super super great.
I have a lot of fun watching it and there are many delicious sandwiches.
Many sandwiches which don't seem delicious but he did do a rufus sandwich from 1911 the famous banana sandwich. So maybe you can give that one a try.
Well, that was a delicious episode and I spent the entire time that you are listening, eating and I am stuffed, huh?
Now I'm sure you're eager to try all of the foods we talked about from banana sandwiches to jelly chicken to pike sauce, you know, why not?
Right? It's worth a try.
We should all experiment, we should all try new things, new flavors.
That's how we discover things.
So you know, dive in.
And hey, I really appreciate you listening.
This was episode 105 and I you know, I'm gonna keep making them I'm so glad that you're out there listening speaking of I do have someone to thank Henry Stanczyk Stanczyk I in Evanston, Illinois.
I think you might have been at the Chicago show.
I'm guessing you probably were right I bet we met Hello to you.
Thank you for your patreon support.
And if you all want a song you gotta holler at me Okay, cuz uh, I got I owe you one.
Okay, so drop me a line I sent an email Everyone else out there, thank you for your support, thank you for listening, remember, be nice to people, stand up for what's right, don't be afraid to speak up, and um...
Tell somebody that you like this show.
They'll appreciate it, I'll appreciate it, and you'll feel so good about it.
It's very springy here in Kentucky.
If you listen to this before the Kentucky Derby, the Big Horse race, which is on the first Saturday in May, you might think of me because I live like a mile and a half away from the racetrack.
I will not be anywhere near it.
I don't, it's just not my thing, uh, but there's going to be a lot of attention on Louisville.
Uh, and so that's fun.
I like it when people pay attention to my city.
There's like a whole week of festivities around it.
And the local night is on Thursday, they call it, Thirby, and I actually produced a video about Tory Merton from Episode 101, who you probably remember if you've listened.
She's the woman who rode across the Atlantic ocean.
And she's going to be honored.
And I produced a video that is going to be put on the Jumbotrons there.
They have dueling jumbotrons like, you know, tens of thousands of people are like, what?
They're going to watch what I made.
Okay, cool. So it's been neat that I've been able to stay involved in that story.
Tori's story is one of my favorites.
Anyway, happy spring everyone, this is Mixelevan signing off.
Thanks for listening to the Past and the Curious.
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